Vermont has its maple syrup. Wisconsin has its cheese. Louisiana has its gumbo. West Virginia has its…well, we don’t know. We read about the enticing southern cooking in Southern Living and the prairies in Midwest Living. We read about West Virginia… well, I’m not sure.
Every inch of West Virginia is classified as Appalachian, yet it differs from many of the stereotypes of that region. West Virginia is a little bit South, but much of its population is part of Pittsburgh. West Virginia’s foodways were initially informed by contact with Native Americans and the harsh growing conditions. Like may areas of the county, in the 19th-century, West Virginia cuisine was influenced by its immigrant cultures. In recent years, any expression of a West Virginia culinary tradition has been informed by the persistence of poverty and a growing chasm between the modern folk and the hill folk. Today, West Virginians are on the cutting edge of sustainable and artisanal farming, yet they are 49th in obesity and food insecurity.
This paper argues that for West Virginians tastes have mingled local and traditional foods with traditional favorites, but they will never get the acclaim they deserve until they fix their issues with food insecurity for its poorest residents.
About the presenterJill M. Nussel
Jill Nussel earned a doctorate in History from the University of Toledo in 2006 and has been pursuing research in food and culture ever since. Today, living in West Virginia, she is interested in sustainable regional foodways, particularly as they are impacted by issues of inequality. West Virginia could be the next great artisanal food scene! Jill is currently the International Student Coordinator at Alderson Broaddus University.